Sorry, followers--I've been delinquent in my posting. But I'll make up some ground here tonight.
We start with Saturday March 13 - our trip out of the city of Manila to visit Villa Escudero. I likened the area to a sort of Filipino version of Colonial Williamsburg; that really might not be wholly accurate, but there are certain similarities. The place is constructed on the grounds of the Escudero family's coconut plantation (like the Rockefellers started C.W.) awe nd was designed to highlight some of the significant aspects of traditional Filipino culture - food, commerce, travel, and dance.
We began our visit with a ride on a cart pulled by carabou (water buffalo), the traditional work-animal in the southern part of the Luzon island (they aren't really pretty beasts, I have to say, but they get the job done.) As we rode along (at no rapid pace, let me tell you--carabou are in no hurry!) we were accompanied by two park employees, a singer and guitar player, who performed traditional Filipino folk songs.
Reaching the end of the line, we disembarked and headed for the restaurant. And here's where the CW parallels sort of fall short--I'm not 100% sure, but I do not think it is the traditional Filipino way to set up tables in the middle of a stream at the foot of a waterfall and eat your lunch as the water rushes around your ankles! Ok, so the experience was cool - the food was authentic and delicious, the sight and sound of the water pouring over the spillway and rushing past our feet was unusual but soothing--and the whole thing had an environmentally strong sense about it, since the waterfall was also functioning as a hydroelectric dam, creating enough power for the resort area.
From lunch, we went up to the top of the dam, where visitors are invited to paddle around the river on traditional bamboo rafts. How could we refuse? Cliff and I hopped aboard (OK--didn't HOP--that would have been disasterous-more like gingerly stepped) and set off on a 30 minute tour of the environs. It was fun--but let it be known that bamboo rafts have the hydrodynamic qualities of a lead brick. Still, we managed to paddle the circuit without tipping over, crashing into the bank, crashing into the dock, or crashing into any other rafters. That's an accomplishment!
Departing the rafts, we moved into the theater, where the children's orchestra was performing on a stringed instrument comparable to a mandolin. They were followed by an hour-long dance performance, featuring traditional dances from the various tribes from every corner of the islands. I've recorded them all, but it's taking forever to post each on Facebook--eventually they'll all get there. My apologies for any quality issues with the recordings; we were in the very front row, so I couldn't get the entire stage at once. I also couldn't get the instrumentalists and dancers at the same time. Besides the quality of the dancers, perhaps the thing that most impressed me was the fact that all of them also performed other functions at the resort - they were also the front desk staff, the carabou musicians, the wait staff, even the custodians - so to be hired, each had to show their proficiency as a worker and a performer. On our way to the museum, we had another surprise--90% of the workers at the resort also live there. The Escudero family gives them a piece of property on the plantation for their home. In some cases, the entire family is employed at the resort! As I understand it, when the Escuderos came up with the resort concept, they actually sat down with their plantation workers, and discussed the notion of this kind of employment. The workers agreed, and it has been a succesful and mutually beneficial arrangement ever since.
As we left the theater, we heard roosters crowing--and around the back, we saw some of the dancers with one. You see, one of the dances late in the program was a story-dance about a man who stole his girl's money in order to bet on a cockfight (next to basketball, perhaps one of the most popular sports--and I know not everyone will agree with the use of that term--in the Philippines today. And yes, here--unlike in the States--it is completely legal). Out come two dancers holding two roosters...and we suddenly think--oh, dear Lord, is one of them about to die right there on stage in front of us??? But not to worry--the roosters were actors as well--they "fought," and one of them "died" (convincingly enough!). So after the show, there was the "winning" rooster; one of the dancers looks at us and asks, "Do you want to hold him?" Sure, said I--nothing I like better than holding a violent animal willing and capable of killing another of his own species! So I did it--and mercifully, it didn't go for my eyes. Actually, it turned out to be exceptionally docile (and quite beautiful as well).
Our last stop on the plantation was the museum--a rather eclectic collection of oddities gathered by the Escudero family. We started with religious items--specifically the floats that are used each year in the Easter processions in town. Then, a tremendous collection of preserved animals -butterflies, spiders, skulls of large mammals, gigantic preserved specimens of lobsters and crabs, snakes, birds, turtles--you name it. There were archaeological finds relating to the islands' ancient cultures...an impressive array of ancient Chinese pottery...a San Francisco Giants World Series ring...examples of paper and coin money from all around the world...clothing worn by Filipino heads of state...Japanese and American military equipment from WWII...and so much more, it was impossible to take it all in.
From Villa Escudero, we drove around 8 km further south. From the look of the area and its inhabitants--a true shantytown (I thought of the song lyric "there's corrugated tin shacks loaded with kid, and I don't mean a Hampsted nursery.")--I could not have expected what we would find in its midsts: Ugu Bigyan's Potter's Garden, an almost unreal place of beauty and tranquility. An open air pottery studio amidst lovely landscaping, protected by graceful wooden architecture...and the works themselves were also exceptional. But the biggest surprise came when our Rotary guide called out, "OK! Dinner!" Dinner?? Here? Sure enough--beneath another pavilion were long tables set for dinner. The Potter's Garden is also a restaurant! And the plates and cups on the tables were handmade by Ugu Bigyan himself! And dinner--pancit noodles, served with a vinegar dressing, accompanied by an amazingly light and sweet melon juice to drink...
Had it not been for the arrival of the mosquitos as evening descended, it would have been a nearly perfect experience. As it was, I'll still give it a 98%.
Come Sunday, there was only one thing on everyone's mind: Manny Pacquiao's boxing match against Joshua Clottey. The Pacman is hands-down a Filipino hero, beloved by all. When he fights--I am not kidding about this--the entire country comes to a complete stop. And--this is verifiable fact--the crime rate in Manila drops to zero--even the criminals find a TV set to watch the fight!
Now, I am no fan of boxing. But clearly, Filipinos are, and they have an absolute love affair with Pacquiao--and for good reason! He's won virtually every title possible for every weight class in which he's fought. So tickets to watch "The Event" on PPV were the hot item during the preceding week. Savvy politicians in an election year know how to win votes: set up big-screens and projection equipment, and invite the entire area to watch for free! So that's what we did--Orly took me to the Ayala Alabang District Hall (an equivalent to our rec centers) where we would be able to watch the fight free of charge--with a snack included!--courtesy of his honor the mayor of Ayala Alabang. The doors opened at 8am (and don't you know we were there johnny on the spot!) We sat through an hour of news, followed by a series of undercard bouts, and enjoyed our free snack (pancit malabon! yummy!) until finally--over four hours later!--The Event began. By this time, the rooms were crowded--people were sitting on the floor, and lined up along the outside perimeter. Even the former Philippines President Fidel Ramos was in attendance (he lives in Orly's neighborhood!) and addressed the crowd.
But I had to cringe. There in the ring (located inside Cowboys Stadium in Arlington, TX) were the flags of Ghana, the Philippines, and the US. Before the boxers did their ring walks, we heard the three national anthems. Later, Orly told me there would certainly be backlash over how his anthem was sung--Arnel Pineda (a native Filipino who won the job of lead singer for the 70's rock back Journey by sounding more like Steve Perry than even Steve Perry!) was "too artistic" in his interpretation; the anthem, said Orly, is constitutionally mandated to be performed at march tempo. I, however, countered by saying that at least HIS anthem was sung by someone who was fully clothed. The Star Spangled Banner was sung by three scantily-clad Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders! How embarrassing....
And that was as exciting as the fight was going to get. If you weren't paying attention, Pacquiao successfully defended his title as Welterweight Champion of the World. Honestly, he could hardly have NOT defended it--he threw something over 1000 punches over the 12 rounds, while I doubt Clottey mustered even 1/10 of that, holding his fists up defensively for virtually the entire fight. It was pretty clear Clottey had two goals in mind: (1) do NOT get knocked out, and (2) collect a massive paycheck for agreeing to go into the ring against Pacquiao. In that case, Clottey got what he wanted...although I doubt he left with anything in the way of respect (certainly not from anyone in my range of hearing, let me tell you!) All I can say is I'm glad I watched for free; others I spoke with paid upward of 650 pesos each (that's like $16) to watch the broadcast on movie theater screens. And they had to pay additional for snacks!
After the fight, we drove back to Orly's house, and I packed up my baggage. The week was over, and I would have a new host family. I said farewell to the Salientes clan, and we headed back into the city, destination Rockwell Starbucks. It was there I had the privilege of meeting Elsie Astete, current president of the Rotary Club of Makati EDSA. Thankfully Elsie has an apartment right in town--and only 4 blocks away from City Hall (my Monday destination!) How nice not to have to spend an hour in the car through traffic every morning!!!
At Elsie's, we had a wonderful dinner, joined by members of her family, as well as other Rotarians. Then, it was time to call it night.
OK, I promised 4 days worth of info, and this is only 2, but it's 1:30 am, and I have to be up & out by 8am to catch the ferry to Corregidor, the Fortress Island of WWII. So I'm going to save yesterday (my visit to Gen. Pio del Pilar National High School, the Urban Planning Office, and the Makati Department of Education) and today (our visit to Caytuyang and the Taal Volcano) for tomorrow.
More pictures will appear in the Facebook album!
Salamat po (thank you) for reading!
Lew
